Knoydart — Fred Leeming

Labelled as ‘Scotland’s last wilderness’, Knoydart is known for being the most remote part of mainland UK. Only accessible by ferry, it is a peninsula located just south of the Isle of Skye on the west coast of Scotland. Loch Nevis (translated as Loch Heaven) is a fjord-like sea loch, surrounded by epic peaks that make up Knoydart.

Staying with Dave and his family, I spent a week kayaking, paddleboarding, hiking and cycling around this absolutely stunning part of Scotland.

16-23rd August 2019

Crossing Loch Nevis from Mallaig to Inverie, Knoydart

When the ferry arrives, a human chain is created as locals come to collect their shopping, ordered from Co-op on the mainland

Rain welcomed us, forcing everyone to pack everything into the cars as quickly as possible

All the cars on the island stay there permanently. Most are battered old Land Rover Defenders

A single road winds across the moor towards Airor

Dave and his dog, Minstrel

Walking over rocks around a headland to take part in the wettest game of beach football ever

Windsurfing on Loch Nevis, under a typically Scottish backdrop

Sailing, Loch Nevis

Kayaking, Loch Nevis

Stalking makes up a huge part of the local economy of Knoydart

Robert, a local ghillie, searching for deer

Keeper, gillie, and dog

The glen at the bottom of Ladhar Bheinn

David and Hugo at the bottom of their climb up Ladhar Bheinn, one of 4 Munros on Knoydart

A recently killed switch (a stag with abnormal shaped antlers that can damage or kill other stags during mating season)

The beast is 'gralloched' on the side of the hill, and the innards left for the crows, foxes, and badgers

Pulling the deer of the hill

It is then loaded onto a pony, and taken down to Inverie where it will be butchered and hung

Cycling the road to Airor, a tiny hamlet on the northern coast of Knoydart

Taking shelter from the rain in an old barn